The new FW24 SABIRAH collection was composed of thirteen glamorously coordinated and largely monochrome outfits, drawn with soft colours and structured tailoring. The stylised power of the pieces nodded back to the 1980s, a reference emphasized by founder and creative director Deborah Latouche who told the press that the collection takes inspiration from muse Dominique Devereux from notoriously glamorous 1980s television show Dynasty. The clothes of this show were indeed characterized by a soap-opera balance of refinement and drama; this balance was evident in the entire atmosphere of the show, from the bright orchestral music to the tan paper runway to the pink and white floral arrangements that hung above.
Photography via Oly Ogunshakin / Chris Yates
The SABIRAH colour palette this season was sophisticated and occasionally metallic; cream, rose, black, gold, silver, and tobacco. Nearly every outfit in the collection was monochrome, leaving tailoring and texture details as key factors for imbuing complexity. The opening look was a double-breasted black satin coat with strong shoulderpads. Cinched at the waist, the coat bloomed into a tulip skirt creating flattering folds of satin that laid over the hips reflecting light. Also in luxurious black satin was the closing look of the FW24 collection; a striking overcoat swinging in the shape of a circle cape. The point of interest to these black satin bookend looks was extraodinary structure.
Fine tailoring, it seems, is as trademark of SABIRAH in this collection as ever. Metallics marked a departure from the vibrant satin colors of the brand’s previous collection. This time we saw the brushed sheen of a shining silver evening jacket. We saw a blush gown trimmed with glimmering pink champagne fabric along the cuffs and collar. Another pale pink ensemble featured a shoulder cape of the same glimmering champagne. One gown made entirely from a smooth gold fabric was especially striking; the sleek head-to-toe mermaid style dress featured a head covering, puffed bishop sleeves, a thick gold sash across the fitted waist, and a modest train.
The dress gave an overall impression of opulence and fluidity, confidence and progression, gold movement. Another gown in the collection- one silver and twinkling- was also an expression of fine structure, with sharp shoulder-pads and a boxy torso falling down into a stylish dropped waist. Sparkling details were not only a feature of garments fabrics but could also be noticed in accessories, where Latouche is known to incorporate vintage elements. Several of the looks feature large gemstone brooch-like buttons pinned to the center of the collar, just below the chin, providing an additional element of glamour and interest to the sleek single toned outfits.
Defining itself as a “conscious, demi-couture modest-wear brand”, the SABIRAH’s ensembles this FW24 offer stylish pieces for women who want luxury full-coverage fashion. The pieces are chic, polished and feminine through the opulence of the quality and craftsmanship. Features like the luxe gold train combine sophistication with playfulness as well. Thematically the collection feels well considered; these garments are made for powerful, elevated women who are not afraid to make daring wardrobe choices, although never at the expense of undeniable elegance. The sense of the SABIRAH woman is not one of delicacy or girliness; rather, maturity, self assurance, and coordination are communicated through collection.
The glam 80s styling pulled the impression of magnificence together; bold shoulders paired with colour-coordinated clutch bags, beaded eye masks, and asymmetrical voluminous hair to top off a flowing metallic cape. These original elements appearing in a coordinated palette evoked the spirit of a woman of authority and poise. A star that shone brightly among the accessories shown was one brimless pale pink feather hat that lay on the models head like a peach fluffy cloud, brushing down past her eyes. The hat was part of an ensemble entirely the same baby pink tone, in a variety of striking textures. The dress featured a dropped waist and asymmetrical hemline on a metallic rose skirt and across the models shoulder was a pink feather sash perfectly matching her hat she also wore three rows of rose pearls and baby pink high heels. The originality and drama of the accessories is delightfully balanced by the refined and precise monochrome palette.
Deborah Latouche showed a collection that was authentically SABIRAH and displayed all trademark characteristics of previous collections. There was drama, glamour and structured tailoring, but this time with a playfully indulged aura of refinement. The consideration of the color palette meant these details and textures became subjects of interest in a surprising and subtle way, as each look surprised and caught light with its’ innovative glamour.
Cover photography by Asia Werbel.
Jane Dabate is an American writer of nonfiction, poetry, and prose.