While Paris embodies traditional luxury, New York embraces commercial trends, and Milan focuses on serious runway presentations, London has always led with respect to new voices. This year’s Fashion Crossover London Ones to Watch event at the Ned Hotel epitomised this unique spirit, featuring nine exceptionally talented designers whose creations ranged from ready-to-wear to accessories to haute couture. Fetch went backstage to chat with our top three favourite designers about the looks they unveiled on the runway.
Shone @shone.co

Photography: Fonie Mitsopoulou/Fetch London
Shone is a British couture knitwear brand created by Shonagh Murray, known for its distinctly chunky and highly feminine designs. Shone showcased two looks at Fashion Crossover London, each leaving a strong impression with their contrast of large knitted textiles and delicate silhouettes with bows. The first look was a lovely off-the-shoulder pearly white mini dress. This ladylike and playful garment featured a highly tactile bow across the bodice, with sleeves flaring out into thick bells. Overall the look beautifully blended striking texture with soft femininity.
Photography courtesy of Shone Co/shotbydimex
The second look was surely a companion to the first, different in shape while echoing the style and themes seen prior. It was a stunning blush pink floor-length gown with a plunging V neckline that met in a bow across the hips. This design was more formal and romantic than the first, yet retained the same intriguing and playful essence through the distinctly large knit fabric. Backstage, we spoke with Murray about her inspiration for these pieces. “Girlhood and nostalgia,” she told us. “It’s all about embracing a carefree approach to life—just letting go and having fun.” Her creations embody this spirit of delicate and bohemian glamour, reminiscent of Chloé winter knits though enlarged to show texture while also maintaining a commitment to sustainability. All pieces are hand-knitted from sustainably sourced, plant-based yarns. We were delighted by the ethical elegance of this whimsical brand.
Mo Zhou @chow.moo

Photography: Fonie Mitsopoulou/Fetch London
Mo Zhou is a designer from Northern China with experiences living in Italy and the United Kingdom. Blending her influences and drawing upon emotional ideas, she drapes garments that embody drama and evoke intensity. In this showcase, she showed two powerfully charged looks which acted as foils to one another. The first look was a black midi length dress with various elements of the black fabric manipulated to create a chaotic texture on the design. Bunches of fabric were ruched on the waistline and leg, with a gentle drape between. Across the shoulders, strips of black cotton hung atop sheer black mesh. When asked about her inspiration for the piece, Mo Zhou told Fetch, “I was stressed out about this show. This piece is about stress,” and added, “Most of my designs are about feelings. Designing is self discovery.”
Video courtesy of LFC
The second look is a prosperous answer to the darkness and unease of the first. It is a long and flowing gown of white cotton with gaps and cuts throughout the fabric. Like the previous look, the textile has been manipulated to expose what is underneath, however this time there is no mesh layer and instead the model's skin is exposed beneath. Effective symbolism of shape and color through and between the two looks is an embodiment of the varied feelings that occupied the designer during her creation process. “After I finished the first one I thought oh it’s okay I can do this. For the next one I felt more creative. I was inspired by sculpture,” Mo Zhou shared with us. The second look is evocative of an ancient goddess with an edgy London spin, with the white fabric draped so softly yet with such intention and strength. Both pieces shown by this designer were truly standouts in craftsmanship and creativity. We were moved by the honesty of her beautiful pieces and cannot wait to see what she does next.
Annie Xing: @xingannie

Photography:Fonie Mitsopoulou/Fetch London
Annie Xing is a multidisciplinary designer whose innovative creations bridge art and technology. Based in New York City, she travelled to London this Fashion Week to show two technically impressive pieces inspired by quantum mechanics and concepts of human perception. The first look was a beautifully presented gown. The halter neckline was formed of sheer black mesh with opaque streaks of silver shimmering studlike texture. This unique mesh tapered down into two protruding pads on either hip, like a chicly futuristic Victorian era pannier. Upon close inspection one can notice the hip pads moving in soft ripples. Falling beneath the hips was a sleek black skirt. When we spoke to Annie Xing, she told us that the piece was an interactive garment, playing with the idea of multiple realities existing until observed. The dress was made with direct-to-textible 3D printing and inside the mesh hip pads were two separate internal mechanisms; motors connected to the fabric. “When the motors move, the fabric moves,” Annie Xing explained how the model's motion created gentle fluttering of the hips and when observed the dress became still. The dynamic dress embodied the complicated idea of perception articulating and defining reality.
Video courtesy of LFC
Xing’s second look was a wearable yet avant garde boatneck dress. Two black panels hugged the body on their side. In the centre the warped colors of a wide chromatic mesh panel glistened under the lights. This dress was perhaps our favourite look of the entire runway show- for its classic shape, the astonishing and psychedelic quality of the mesh, and the spot-on styling. The dress was deliciously paired with a hot pink pair of leather heeled boots. Altogether the ensemble reminded us of a 2024 Barbarella inspired cool-girl.
Jane Dabate is an American writer of nonfiction, poetry, and prose.